Better Beer is Here

Published

We’ve been anxiously waiting for the official, full-blown opening of Potlatch Brewing Co. Earlier this summer, the new brewhouse premiered with a pop-up outdoor beer garden on Highway 101 in Hoodsport. Head brewer and owner, Cody Morris, deliberately reestablished his craft beer expertise in a quaint spot overlooking the Hood Canal. This proud moment didn’t happen quickly; the planning and preparations have been more than two years in the making. Finally, Morris has a brewery to boast about, and we get to savor the fruits of his labor.

Brews are manufactured and distributed from the onsite 7-barrel operation, but this isn’t his first rodeo. Over a decade ago, Morris launched Epic Ales and it turned into a tiny Seattle hotspot. Beer snobs took notice of his talent and began buzzing about his flavorful brews full of nostalgic ingredients. Beer blogs also took note and the small place became, well, epic as did his reputation. Then, he started Mollusk Brewing in on South Lake Union; another hit. An interested investor took notice and wound up purchasing it a few years later; it since sold again.

Potlatch Brewing is an unusual gem and locals are beginning to find out why. Finding himself at a career crossroads, Morris moved to rural Mason County where breweries are few and far between. He realized a real probability for putting another place on the map where the economic pressures of the city are a distant thought. The town of Hoodsport has gained an industry superstar and it will become apparent as both locals and droves of visitors order themselves a pint. Compared to most breweries in small communities, its years of experience will set its quality apart.

Cody Morris, brewer and proprietor of Potlatch Brewing

For now, he is operating as a one-man band with his partner Rachel. He brews; she pours. Both are excited about the viability of creating a casual hang-out space with cool brew where people can conversate. Already, Morris says he sees new friendships forming among patrons and finds it very rewarding to facilitate a place for that to happen. He is quick to point out how hyper-focused he is on sourcing local ingredients and how working with area farms will showcase a variety of hops in future batches. After all, beer is a biological process.

Three flagship beers are readily available including a brown ale, pale ale, and helles lager. A total of 12 taps will feature these staples and another nine rotating taps will feature seasonal vibes. Potlatch Brewing is beginning to show up on tap locally. One permanent tap is established at Hama Hama Oyster Saloon, another favorite stop in the Hood Canal region. Select beers are available in cans to go and will eventually make an appearance along the I-5 corridor.

Of course, nothing worthwhile is ever easy. Despite the process of finding a suitable location and customizing it to accommodate equipment necessary for manufacturing, the brewery has faced challenges with building permitting and now supply chain issues. Who would have ever thought securing aluminum cans would be a thing? But it is.

The problem began in 2018 when new tariffs on Chinese steel and aluminum created a disruption. Then, COVID complicated it with massive shipyards being completely shut down in China. Market reaction caused production to move to Canada while prices became expensive with only two major manufacturers delivering to meet the demand. Morris had a hard time finding blank cans through suppliers and was lucky to find a few pallets in the past month. The climate is now creating a scarcity of malt and barley; recent yields have been lower with the impacts of soaring summer temperatures. Luckily, nearby Skagit Valley is a resource, and more farmers are increasing production to accommodate the brewing boom.

Business owners like Morris always face uncertainty. However, their entrepreneurial spirit carries them through the ups and downs. Potlatch Brewery is working past its rocky start and is anxious to barrel ahead toward prosperity. Just recently, it has invited patrons indoors to its newly constructed taproom at 24180 N Highway 101. We suggest you make it a point to stop by, raise a glass, and welcome them to Hoodsport. Currently, they are open Thursday-Sunday from 12:00-6:00p. Cheers!

Read other area business news and events in the quarterly publication of the Shelton-Mason Chamber of Commerce.